Emmy Squared

Reservations are hard to come by at this pizzeria and waits can get long, so time your visit wisely (hint: lunchtime or as soon as it opens). Each metal tray holds six square, fat slices whose golden, crunchy crust is produced via a convection oven fed by a conveyor belt. While this might sound peculiar to thin-crust, wood-fired pizza lovers, owners Emily and Matt Hyland know what they’re doing—having already mastered that genre at their first pizzeria, Emily, in Clinton Hill. The pies here are filling and zesty, the toppings bountiful (mozzarella, pepperoni, mushrooms, chiles and so forth). Also indulgent is the double-patty, cheesy Le Big Matt burger slathered with spicy sambal aioli, but it’s only available at lunch and on Friday and Saturday nights in the downstairs bar. There’s also a sizable list of whiskeys, beers and wines plus cocktails on tap.